THIS MORNING’s Chanel Couture show was somewhat girlish from Karl Lagerfeld, primarily because the models glided along the Pavilion Cambon catwalk in flat, backless black patent shoes.
At first impression their pastel frilled and feathered dresses gave them a Princess Josephine innocence but, combined with hair pulled up into knots and waist-less silhouettes suggested by dresses that either dropped low on the waist of skirts or fell from the shoulders or empire line for subtly glittering evening versions, it took on a more Grecian allure.
Short-sleeved evening dresses fell to floor in icy tones of pale pink, blue or lilac and while they were as intricately conceived as Chanel Couture dresses always are - with countless artisans having worked on every detail - their sequins, crystals and embroidery were less statement-making and elaborate -and somehow even more delicate this time around. A sequinned, trapeze shaped tunic jacket came over a froth of feathered skirt that was a lighter-than-air version of the more solid Chanel looks of the previous season.
Traditional bouclé wool suits played out at the start over narrow trousers – one of various elements on this catwalk that overlapped with the Armani Privé offering last night: the narrow-shouldered silhouettes of both distinctly uncurvy.
The Chanel girls had black ribboned chokers that tied into their hair at the back and the finale to this intimate show opened up into a tableau